1 month ago | By

Jan-Jan Van Essche's collection was like an ode to slowing down, a far cry from the frenetic pace of fashion's seasons. At his first Paris presentation since the beginning of the pandemic, this sensation was accentuated thanks to a performance by Lithuanian musician Indrė Jurgelevičiūtė, whose melodies combine soundscapes and folk songs with a Kanklès, a traditional Lithuanian harp.
As ever, the Antwerp-based designer built his framework from open shapes and free forma. “The body shapes the garment, not the other way around,” he explained. “If things are not very detailed, the focus is...
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Valette Studio Men's Spring 2023

1 month ago | By

Picking up where he left off last season, Pierre-François Valette took his characters from Andy Warhol's Factory to Capri and the surrounding Italian coast, with actor and 1970s sex symbol Joe Dallesandro as muse for the season.
“I wanted to be more relaxed, with details that make easier to live in - in a word, cooler,” said the designer, pointing out other details like elasticated cuffs on a zippered blouson cut from shirting, or the denim cuffs and pockets on drawstring trousers.
If the overall outlook is more casual, Valette's penchant for tailoring was omnipresent. Singlets were cut...
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Paul Smith Men's Spring 2023

1 month ago | By

Tailored clothing is flying out the door at Paul Smith, but it's not the old stuff. “Tailoring isn't what it used to be. Men are rethinking the way they put things together,” said Smith, who staged his first live show after more than two years.
More than any designer, Smith knows what his clients are buying because he's still the Saturday boy, working on the shop floor of his Mayfair store on Albemarle Street. Where other designers and brands pore over data, Smith is able to look straight into the shopping basket.
For spring, he's delivered even more tailoring, along with loads of soft...
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Dior Men's Spring 2023

1 month ago | By

You could smell the garden set of the Dior men's show even before you saw it: a staggering 19,000 plants were dotted across a real lawn inside the venue, a tent erected on the grounds of the church and monastery of the Val-de-Grâce in Paris, where the flowers will be planted after the event.
At either end of the runway stood two houses: smaller-scale reproductions of Christian Dior's childhood home in Granville, France, and Charleston, the farmhouse in England that Bloomsbury Group painters Duncan Grant and Vanessa Ball transformed into a living work of art, beginning in 1916.
Kim Jones...
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