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Tom Ford Men's Fall 2019

7 monthes ago   |   By

The designer looked to the BBC nature documentary “Frozen Planet” for fall, blending tailored and outdoorsy clothing with streetwear. Everything was done in luxe fabrics, natch, and even the toughest of outerwear was sculpted and polished.
No Michelin Man or Yeti puffers here.
Looks ranged from a classic chalk stripe suit with a sporty tab belt to tailored puffer ones - peaked lapels and all. Jackets in icy pastels were made from silk with the insulation inside, although trousers came minus any bulk.
Ford gave a long and dark, double-breasted silk overcoat a similar puffer treatment...
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Emporio Armani Men's Fall 2019

7 monthes ago   |   By

The big chill swept through this superluxe, winter-sports-themed collection, one of the house's strongest in seasons.
The allure was very urban but, between the lines, exotic with the lashings of faux furs and embossed fabrics emulating animal skins. Even checked pants and textured knits took on a wild allure.
The mood was cold and cozy, with the palette blowing from black to a storm of suit-grays to silver, blue and albino, including a white-out section with models carrying snowboards.
Offering warmth was the expanse of textural woolly, quilted, velvety and furry surfaces, some with light...
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Spyder Men's Fall 2019

7 monthes ago   |   By

Sportswear specialist Spyder staged its runway debut with a fall show opened by the performance of a gymnast on the rings.
The show combined the brand's training collection with the urban lifestyle range through a number of looks that incorporated the athletic and activewear DNA of the label into everyday city outfits. Backstage, creative director Christopher Bevans said he was inspired by the youth tribes in the Nineties and wanted to use that to “elevate the sporty aesthetics.”
Nylon running outfits with geometric motifs were influenced by the looks sported by young skaters in the...
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Pal Zileri Men's Fall 2019

7 monthes ago   |   By

Pal Zileri's man is romantic, poetic and also a little bit of a dandy.
Standing in front of a mood board reproducing vibrant images by artist Max Ernst and a photo of director David Lynch, creative director Rocco Iannone admitted his “romantic feelings,” saying that his collection had a “fairy-tale” quality. He said he was looking for “harmony in contrasts” and, indeed, the collection mixed opulent Baroque brocades with more severe pinstriped and minimalist designs.
Textures were rich and elaborately explored with silky fabrications and strong colors, from burgundy to moss green and...
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Isabel Benenato Men's Fall 2019

7 monthes ago   |   By

Post-punk references were injected into the Isabel Benenato collection, which was rooted in a bit romantic and decadent aesthetic. Slim-fit suits were worn with elongated silk shirts, while lightweight mohair sweaters and cardigans revealed an unfinished, artisanal touch. Playing with proportions, the designer matched leather perfecto jackets with long knitted pieces and tiny metallic chains gave a gothic feel to velvet suits worked in dark tones. In keeping with the men's collection, the women's numbers channeled the same nocturnal mood, with cadet jackets worn with skin-tight leather...
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No. 21 Men's Fall 2019

7 monthes ago   |   By

After a sea of bright colors and a season of streetwear and logos, Alessandro Dell'Acqua served up a refined and elegant palette cleanser while still keeping it super young.
The starting point was cult classic, Rainer Werner Fassbinder's sailor movie “Querelle de Brest.” “Not the muscles, but rather the fragility of the sailors when together,” the designer said backstage.
The cute navy and red sailor knits were the obvious till ringers. But the designer in his delivery - a super clean Nineties allure with tailored proportions - also succeeded in softening the nuances and subculture...
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Tod's Men's Fall 2019

7 monthes ago   |   By

Tod's men's creative director Andrea Incontri showed an edited and focused collection for the brand, one that revolved around the concept of “liquidity” and “the gentleman flow,” a fluid wardrobe that is neither formal nor sportswear, but adjustable to and fit for different situations.
Indeed, “seasonality is over,” Tod's chief Diego Della Valle believes. “We need a transversal product that will last for most of the year and from one Monday to the next,” he said.
Incontri showed beautiful and light delavé wool or cashmere double-breasted coats with a delicate wadding as a detachable...
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